A concert of the US folk/rock band The Lumineers brought us to the Western Australian city of Perth, a part of Australia we had not visited, yet. We had heard about good wine along the Swan river which flows through the city and micro breweries along the coast in Fremantle. I searched for a yarn store as well and found Bilby yarns in Willagee, but in the end it was too difficult to get there by bus on Saturday during their opening hours on our way to Fremantle. Which was great for not acquiring more fibre stash (they sell fibre from local sheep!), but sad as well since I think it may have been my once in a lifetime chance to visit the store. But back to our plans to see the city and surroundings. We stayed at the Pensione Hotel Perth, a budget boutique hotel close to the Central Business District. The rooms are very small with tight space surrounding the bed, but equipped with everything one needs. We loved the central location walking distance to the river, to the concert venue, cafes, train station and museums.
Swan Bells tower
Swan Bells history
View from “The Lucky Shag”-Pub
Sculpture at Elizabeth Quay
Our first walk-about brought us to the Swan river and a nice stroll alongside until we reached Barrack Square with its river ferry docks, the Swan Bells Tower, restaurants and bars. It was a warm day and we enjoyed our view with a cold beer at the “Lucky Shag” Pub.
Breakfast
Decorative wine leaves
A family windery
View from the tasting station at Lancaster winery
For the next day we had planned a slow morning for a leisurely breakfast with a muffin and the quintessential Australian coffee, a flat white. Our winery tour with Swan Valley tours started on a bus about lunch with a visit to two wineries: Houghton wines, the oldest and largest in the Swan Valley, and Lancaster. The latter is a smaller family-run business with great wines, only available at the winery, paired with tasty, local cheese. The wines were excellent and we bought a couple of bottles to enjoy in Abu Dhabi. The wine tasting was followed by a visit to a small chocolate factory with an opportunity to taste some of their hand-made products. Then it was off to the Swan River for a two-hour cruise with coffee, tea, cake and more wine back to Elizabeth Quay in downtown Perth. That evening was pretty short with a quick Japanese noodle dinner and a long nights sleep to be ready for our train trip to Fremantle.
Travelling in the Transperth public transit system is easy and affordable. A family day pass was the cheapest option for us to go by train to the old town of Fremantle on the Indian Ocean and back. It takes about 35 Minutes from the Perth Central station. On a sunny day we enjoyed walking the lovely maintained “old” downtown of Fremantle and the views along the ocean.
180 degree view at the beach
Little Creatures Micro-brews
Lumineers concert
Lunch and beer-tasting at Little Creatures microbrewery was a delight and we were ready to travel back to Perth to have a nap before the start of the Lumineers concert at 8 pm. We expected to see an opening band and were surprised to hear a local band opening for the opening band. That Perth band played music with acoustic rhythms and good song-writing well aligned with the Lumineers-style. Too bad we didn’t hear the name and couldn’t find it online neither. In contrast, the official opening band relied heavily on over-tuned and loud guitar sounds that obliterated the singers voice and made me count the minutes until they were done. But the Lumineers who started their show at 9:15 pm were absolutely amazing! Two songs were performed without any electronic amplifier and just with acoustic guitar, cello, piano and voice. They were showing the craftmanship of the songwriting and music composition. One of the best bands I have seen live in concert! And luckily, in a relatively small space which held about 1,000 fans. My favourite way to enjoy any kind of music.
Art gallery of Western Australia
A sneaker exhibit!
Luminous – art glass exhibit
Glass helmet that can be worn
Glass house cinema showing movie scenes
For our last day we picked the art gallery of Western Australia as our activity. It was in walking distance of our hotel and the entrance fee was by donation: a great way to donate all of our change for a good cause. The gallery specializes in modern art with a focus on artists in Western Australia. The “funniest” exhibit was the display of hundreds of designer sneakers collected by one person who had not even worn them. Who would have thought that a collection of sneakers can be considered art? The most touching show was “In plain speak” where aboriginal artists of Western Australia explored their past and current life and the view and language of society relating to them. It was shocking to see and hear the experiences and how equality was and still seems impossible for them. The endemic problems reminded us of the situation of many indigenous people in Canada. Change seems to be very slow and difficult to achieve. The most uplifting display were the glass objects in the “Luminous” room. The Tom Malone prize is awarded yearly to a glass design that pushes the boundaries of what glass can be used for. My favourite being the glass helmet which was created with an opening to be worn if so desired. I would have loved to try it out and still imagine how the world will look like from inside…
Our overall impression of Perth is that it is a city full of the Young. We mostly saw people in their 20s-30s and left wondering where the 40+ year-olds were. On occasion we saw someone walking through the pedestrian area, but that was it. We are still speculating if the older people move away from downtown and live mostly in the suburbs or is the percentage of 40+-aged persons really that low in Western Australia? Or may be it was the late time of day we spent in the downtown area when young people are out and about for parties and a good time? I guess, we will have to go back for a bit longer and figure it out…
Thank you, for reading my blog! Maike